Food unlocks memories. For many Californians, the taste of abalone conjures memories of the 1960s—when you could legally harvest the shellfish and roast them over a beach fire. Unfortunately, the practice became too widespread, and unsustainable fishing levels caused steep declines in the population. The commercial fishery closed in the 1990s, followed by the recreational fishery in 2018.
Today, the only way to legally and sustainably eat abalone in California is by farming it. The Cultured Abalone Farm in Santa Barbara opened in 1989 to preserve part of California’s abalone culinary culture. What started as a backyard farm has grown into an important part of the community, bridging the gap to a cherished food source.
Devin Spencer plays a vital role in the farm’s mission. She started at The Cultured Abalone Farm cleaning tanks 7 years ago, inspired by her passions for marine science, education, and food systems. Since then, she has worked her way up to general manager and has become a jill of all trades. She spends her time learning how to fix the plumbing, testing new spawning techniques, and engaging with the community. Her hard work provides a sustainable food source and helps restore this iconic Californian shellfish…